How to hem jeans correctly?
First of all, you need to correctly mark where to cut your jeans. To do this, you first need to align both legs of the jeans, baste the double hem seam and then hem the jeans using a sewing machine.
If your jeans are very worn out and have holes in the knees, you can easily turn these jeans into shorts.
In this video you will learn how to hem jeans using a sewing machine.
1. Don't forget to add a double hem width to the crop line of your jeans.
Hemming jeans or hemming men's trousers is a reason to get the sewing machine out of the closet and try to hem jeans yourself. Cutting jeans seems to be easy, but hemming them by hand is outdated, especially when you have them at home sewing machine. All you need to do is cut the jeans evenly, make two lines, and the jeans are hemmed. And why do the studio charge that kind of money?
However, everything is not so simple. Correctly and accurately trim both trouser legs and hem jeans Only experienced and trained professionals can do this. Moreover, it is possible to hem jeans “without problems” only on a special industrial machine capable of sewing thicker areas of denim seams.
Before hemming the jeans, you need to accurately mark the shortening line of the jeans at the bottom and add the width of the double hem to this mark. There are many “folk” ways to determine the hem line. Including this one unique way like in this photo. Although why not? Perhaps it’s more convenient for you, and most importantly, it’s clearer how to mark the hem line of your jeans.
2. The bottom line of the jeans leg should touch the floor.
In the atelier they mark the hem line for jeans something like this.
You, in jeans and without shoes, stand on the mat near the mirror with a lower view. The “extra” sections of jeans (usually one leg) are folded inward and the folded sections are pinned. On the back of the jeans, mark the hem line with chalk. From the heel side, the lower part of the trouser leg must touch the floor. If jeans are worn with high-heeled shoes, then even if it is slightly longer.
After that, you put on the shoes you will wear jeans in, and the master adjusts the hem line, already focusing on the height of the heel of the shoe. Be sure to bring the shoes you will wear with jeans to the studio. This especially applies to women.
After this preliminary determination of the hem line, you need to put on the shoes with which the jeans will be worn, and the final length of the jeans is adjusted according to the shoes and your wishes. Strongly tapered women's jeans can form an “accordion”, so they must be adjusted “individually”, taking into account many factors and your wishes.
Measuring the crop line of jeans is done one leg at a time, mainly the right leg, since the right leg is usually longer than the left. The adjusted hem line is marked with chalk along the back side in one or three places.
There is no need to mark anything on the front of the jeans.
4. There is no need to bevel the hem line of jeans in the front.
The next step is to accurately mark the hem line on both legs. To do this, first cut off the side marked on the fitting (right).
There is no need to bevel the hem line in the front and do not ask the tailor to do this, since the technology for hemming jeans does not provide for this.
Next, from the mark that was made along the back of the leg, draw a line (under the ruler) parallel to the factory line of the bottom of the jeans.
And most importantly, before cutting your jeans, don’t forget to add an allowance (3-4 cm) to the double hem. Often, this requires “disassembling” the factory hem, clearing the seam of thread and ironing it.
You can cut jeans only after marking an additional line, with an increase for the hem of the jeans.
Half the job is already done, just one more leg of jeans left. But here, it seems, everything is simple. In fact, it is precisely in order to accurately mark the hem line on the second leg of jeans that the qualifications of a master are required.
Inexpensive jeans are often sewn in semi-handicraft conditions, without particularly worrying about matching the length of both trouser legs. However. This also happens with factory tailoring. This is due to the technological features of mass production of jeans. That's why half of the jeans have different leg lengths, albeit slightly, but they do.
Fold the jeans with the legs inside, align them neatly on the table, and you will see this.
In order to accurately determine the hem line on the second leg of the jeans, you need, of course, to fold both trouser legs together and mark a line along the already cut-off trouser leg. It’s just that when you notice, everything seems to be perfectly straight, but when you hem the jeans and put them on, for some reason the legs of the jeans turn out to be different lengths. To avoid this, jeans folded and laid out on a flat table must be carefully aligned.
You need to check and match all the lines of the jeans: side seams, inner crotch, waistline, pockets, etc. You need to smooth out the existing wrinkles on the jeans with your hand so that there is no distortion and “wrinkles”. And only after you are sure that all the lines match, mark the second leg. To do this, you just need to draw a line with chalk along the edge of the already cut right leg. To this line you need to add (now above it) the width of the increase and mark the main line - the hem line of the jeans.
This is approximately how marking the hem line of jeans is done in the studio. It’s not difficult, but without experience it’s very difficult to do it accurately, especially for some reason when jeans cost 7-8 thousand rubles.
You may not be able to mark it accurately the first time. So don't be surprised when you put on jeans. In this case, you can “disassemble” the hem and do it all over again. Well, after the first hundred jeans everything will work out perfectly.
6. Not every sewing machine can sew hems on jeans.
You can “safely” hem jeans on a sewing machine only on old grandmother’s machines, such as the Podolsk sewing machine with a manual or foot drive. With such a machine you certainly won’t break anything, except maybe the needle.
We strongly do not recommend sewing rough jeans, especially seam joints, on modern household machines. If you don’t have another machine, then it will probably be cheaper to have your jeans hemmed at a tailor.
This video shows a way to hem jeans using trouser tape. This method allows you to maintain the length of the trouser leg and reliably protect the hem of your jeans from rubbing out.
But let's assume you have a suitable sewing machine. You have accurately aligned both legs of your jeans, and all that remains is to hem them. But then she appeared new problem- threads. Not only is it difficult to select them exactly by color and shade in the store, but it is also difficult to insert needles into the eye because they are too thick. After all, you need to hem jeans with thick threads, just like in a factory, so what should you do then? By the way, it is better to buy threads according to the sample. Take with you jeans or a piece cut off when shortening jeans. It takes up little space, but you can’t go wrong with the color when choosing threads. You can buy threads in advance, right when you just bought jeans in the store, going to a sewing accessories store along the way.
Finishing threads for hemming jeans do not need to be threaded into the needle of your sewing machine. She still won’t sew with such threads, unless you have an industrial sewing machine with a No. 150 needle, and the machine can be damaged with such threads. The factory uses special sewing machines with No. 150 needles, but you don’t have such a machine, so you can use the following method to hem jeans with such thick threads.
Wind a double thread of regular thickness onto the bobbin (from two spools at the same time) or one thick thread.
The upper thread that is threaded into the needle remains alone, number 35 or 45.
Adjust the tension of the upper thread; it needs to be slightly increased, or even better, checked on a prototype.
Now you can hem your jeans, but not on the front side, but on the inside, see the top photo. By the way, this is exactly how jeans are hemmed in the studio.
And yet, thickened areas at the joints of seams often cannot be “passed” even by an industrial machine. Tap them with a small hammer or the handles of tailor's scissors, they will become softer and it will be easier for the needle to pierce them. See also Sewing stitches for difficult areas.
Be sure to fix the hem with an iron and baste it with stitches of contrasting thread before hemming the jeans using a machine.
Video on how to make shorts from old jeans.
There are several ways to finish the bottom of jeans. In this article you will learn how to restore frayed bottoms of men's jeans.
It is difficult to hem jeans yourself. You need to accurately mark both legs, find a machine that can sew thick denim, select threads, etc. But making shorts from jeans is quite simple. You just need to mark them evenly and you don’t even have to hem the shorts on a machine, pull out a few peppered threads and make “ragged” edges.
The appearance of scuffs on jeans, and sometimes holes, is a problem for any jeans. How to make patches on jeans, how to decorate worn areas, how to make shorts out of jeans and other tips you will find in this article.
To hem jeans you need to use thick reinforced threads, for example 100 LL grade. They do not fade, are very durable and do not stain after washing jeans. But you cannot hem jeans with such threads on a household sewing machine. Wind them onto a bobbin, and set the top thread thinner, for example 45 LL.
What needles should you use to hem jeans? For thick denim fabrics, you can buy a special needle. This needle penetrates thick seams more easily and reduces the load on the household sewing machine. However, it is not recommended to hem jeans using household sewing machines.
Many people can hem their jeans and sew simple curtains themselves. Many women who repair clothes and are interested in tailoring dream of sewing a beautiful and original bedspread. This is quite difficult to do, especially if it is quilted.
Can you cut and hem your jeans evenly? Then you can easily cope with a more complex task - sewing covers for chairs and other furniture. In this article we will give you some tips on how to sew chair covers with your own hands.
For sewing products from denim, thick and medium-thick fabrics, heavy materials, carpeting, upholstery of upholstered furniture, mattresses, leather haberdashery, as well as for making decorative seams and sewing on buttons, use special sewing accessories -. These are strong and wear-resistant threads made from 100% staple polyester with an optimal selection of physical and chemical parameters that guarantee excellent sewing properties of the threads and the durability of the products sewn with them.
Denim sewing threads have a high density and uniformity, ensuring the creation of a clear, beautiful, durable decorative stitch that does not stretch or become shaggy. Also, the advantages of denim sewing threads include the following consumer and performance characteristics:
- The thread is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, does not fade in the sun, and does not lose its brightness when washed and exposed to high temperatures;
- resistant to abrasion, repeated bending and stretching, tearing, mechanical operating loads;
- maintains stable characteristics under the influence of chemical factors and reagents, aggressive environments;
- has high decorative qualities, intense shine or a matte smooth surface;
- does not cause irritation, is hypoallergenic and safe for human health.
Buy jeans sewing threads
Online store Lili Market offers sewing accessories different types for household and industrial use, among which there are a wide range of threads. we can offer it at an affordable price, in the most popular color scheme. For example, a set of 10 pieces of denim sewing thread presented in our electronic catalog includes such popular colors as white, black, blue, light blue, beige, yellow, brown, red, purple, green colors. The threads are of high quality, strength, uniformity, wear resistance and durability.Jeans— the fabric is quite affordable, durable and designed for long, intensive wear. Therefore, threads for sewing jeans are traditionally used with increased strength.
Unfortunately, the listed types of thread are not so easy to find in stores, and the color variety leaves much to be desired.
But on the shelves of sewing stores you can choose imported threads. The following threads are suitable for sewing denim materials:
Sewing threads from Aman
- reinforced polyester sewing threads— Saba 50 and Saba 35
- contrasting thread for finishing stitches on jeans - Saba 30
- reinforced cotton-polyester sewing thread – Rasant 75
Sewing threads from Gutermann
- reinforced cotton-polyester sewing threads - H120, H75, H35
Sewing threads from COATS
- reinforced polyester sewing thread – Epic 60
- reinforced cotton-polyester sewing thread - “Dual Duty” T-80N
- cotton sewing threads "Admiral" - T-60
Sewing threads under the brand name “Rain Bow”
- polyester staple sewing thread “Ada” - A 202/120
You can also try using leather stitching threads for finishing stitches on jeans.
I think from the range of threads listed above, you can always choose the ones you need.
Now it's time to answer the second question
How to get around thick seams?
The seams on the jeans are really very thick in places and not every machine can handle them. I suggest not bypassing thick seams, but turning them into “non-thick” ones :)
First what you need to do is to use a special needle for sewing denim, for example it could be a needle marked “Jeans” 130/705H ().
Second, you need to thoroughly steam the thick sections of the seams through a damp iron.
And third, give them a good tap with a hammer. Yes, yes, with the most ordinary hammer, the one used to hammer in nails :).
Just remember to put a layer of another fabric on the jeans so as not to ruin the jeans themselves. As a result of steaming and beating, the seam sections will become thinner, this has been tested from my own experience.
My blog is found using the following phrases
Very practical tips on sewing denim from the blog "Vilvetkin's Handicrafts". Author's words.
I often sew from denim and always want the seams to look as “factory” as possible. Alas, it is not possible to imitate a factory double stitch on a household sewing machine, but it is quite possible to make a decent double stitch.
Many who tried to sew with special denim threads, I encountered difficulties - the machine skips stitches, loops on one side of the fabric, etc. It happened to me too. But then, after scouring several sewing forums, I found a number of tricks that finally reconciled my machine with thick denim threads.
The first trick is threads
A thick decorative thread is used only as the top thread; we thread a regular thread into the bobbin, for example, reinforced linen-lavsan thread No. 45. The upper thread tension needs to be loosened a little.
Trick two - needle position
The most common problem with sewing jeans is skipping stitches on thick spots, for example when hemming jeans at the seams. This happens because the needle does not have time to pierce the thick fabric. As a result, when the needle and top thread hit the shuttle, it has already turned and upper thread does not cling to the bottom. In order to avoid this, you can place the needle a little lower! Not all the way! I know the idea sounds seditious, I was always taught to insert the needle all the way, otherwise... well, something terrible and irreparable will happen to the machine. But no, everything turned out a little wrong. 
Here is the needle position in my machine when sewing jeans. And no missed stitches!!!
The third trick for an even delay is a presser foot with a guide.
These paws are called differently by different manufacturers, but the essence is the same - the presence of a guide, the position of which can be adjusted. 
I have this one. Naturally, the elastic band is not included. This is my copy that has become loose from long use :))
The stitching is done sequentially. Those. First, the seam is close to the edge, then the second is parallel to the first. To ensure that the stitching width is the same throughout the entire product, while sewing the first decorative seam, I mark the stitching width directly on the foot. In this case, the red dot corresponds to the first line, the blue dot to the second. Very comfortably.
And finally, not tricks, but rather reminders:
Jeans are sewn with a thick needle No. 100, preferably a special denim one. This needle has a special tip shape, which makes it easier to pierce thick tissue.
A fairly well-known trick, but repetition is the mother of learning. If you need to sew a thickening, for example, a place where several seams intersect, you should try to make this place thinner - steam it with an iron or soften it by beating it with a hammer. Do not overdo it with the hammer, otherwise you may damage the fabric.
When passing through a thickening at the moment when the foot hangs in the air, clinging to the thickening, and the needle is already piercing a thin area, skipping stitches and a violation of their length may also often occur due to the fact that the foot is not pressing the fabric at this moment. With such a transition, you can pre-place under the thinner section paper folded in several layers, equal in height to the thickening. Of course, next to the seam, just to give support to the foot. When the foot passes the thickening and completely moves to the thin area, you can remove the paper and continue sewing as usual.
Good luck with your denim sewing! I hope these tricks will save you stress and time.
When sewing jeans and other clothing made from denim, different threads for jeans, including cotton threads, polyester threads, reinforced threads. New developments are now replacing the old ones, but from time to time their victories are short-lived, and again humanity turns for help to the old ones, tried in the distant past. Sewing threads are no exception. Let's look at the main types of threads: 100% cotton, 100% polyester, and threads that can be called mixed or combined, consisting of a polyester cotton outer and base layer. Let's compare their good and negative sides.
Cotton yarn actually begins in the same place as history. The first traces of cotton thread date back to approximately 7,000 years ago. In the first half of the 30s of the eighteenth century, the time of industrial machine production of cotton threads began. Since that time, cotton sewing threads have become one of the main types of products needed for... Thanks to natural fibers, cotton thread has the excellent property of forming sewing stitches without skipping, in addition, when the needle is heated (in high-speed cars), since cotton thread does not respond to an increase in temperature, and also on poorly adjusted cars, the level of line quality remains completely acceptable. Also, cotton thread, when wet, only increases its own strength. Most 100% cotton threads go through the mercerization process, i.e. processing in caustic soda solution. This makes the fibers more uniform, easier to dye, and increases shine and increases the strength and elasticity of the threads. But it also has its own shortcomings. Although the liquid makes the thread stronger, it is subject to shrinkage and mold. Cotton threads are inferior in strength to polyester and poly-cotton threads.
POLYESTER THREAD 100%
Polyester fibers were invented by English chemists Winfeld and Dixon in the first half of the 40s of the twentieth century, but actual licensed production, due to the complexity of the production process, did not begin until 1955. The essence of the process is that during the sublimation of oil, a by-product hydrocarbon compound, xylene, appears. Glycol and nitric acid are added to xylene, the liquid is heated and condensed in an autoclave - polyester is obtained, which is then cooled and cut into chips. They create a “bundle” of 170,000 threads, which is twisted until it is reduced by 10-20 times and, at one point, stretched to the initial length. As a result, polyester threads have very high elasticity and high strength. In addition, polyester threads are more resistant to abrasion, mildew and sunlight than cotton threads. The disadvantage is that polyester threads are thicker, more susceptible to breakage and melt at high temperatures.
COMBINED THREAD OR REINFORCED THREAD: POLYESTER COTTON SHELL and BASE
At that time, when polyester thread became more and more popular, combined threads appeared, which contained a polyester thread in their base and a cotton braid on top. Thanks to this combination, sewing threads with the best features of both materials were selected. The cotton wrap gives the string a true heat resistance and cotton look, while the 100% polyester core gives the string strength, resistance and stretch to abrasion. Combined threads, also called reinforced threads, are becoming increasingly popular among denim clothing manufacturers. In the territory of the former USSR, the most suitable threads for sewing clothes from denim are reinforced threads 65LH and reinforced threads 65LL. They differ from each other in that LH has a cotton braid over the lavsan rod, while LL has a polyester braid.
- Polyester sewing threads from Micron
- Suitable imported threads for jeans: Sewing threads from Amann
- Sewing threads from Gutermann
And, of course, Coats, which is the main manufacturer of sewing threads in the world, since every fifth pair of jeans is sewn specifically with these threads. It is recommended to select threads for jeans, such as Dual Duty, Dual Duty Supercotton and Epic. Dual Duty Supercotton is a high quality reinforced thread specifically designed for sewing cotton products that will be dyed in the future. Only cotton threads are suitable for this purpose, but they have the sequence of the above-described shortcomings. Dual Duty Supercotton is a hybrid sewing thread that combines the best features of cotton and polyester. They have a high-strength polyester fiber core, which gives them elasticity and high strength, and on top there is a special cotton braid that provides excellent paint absorption. Coats Epic are high-tech reinforced threads that combine the strength of a polyester core with the aesthetics of a polyester braid. Ideal for both delicate clothing and denim and workwear, they provide high performance in the most demanding sewing operations.
Birthdays
